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Day 42: The light is always at the end of the tunnel

  • Writer: Pauline Bouras
    Pauline Bouras
  • Jun 11, 2018
  • 2 min read

Updated: Apr 28, 2021


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Day 42 - Thursday, May 3rd 2018: Downings to Dunfanaghy 27 km / Total 921 km, 12°C, cloudy


It was a long day walking, just to turn around Sheephaven Bay, with misty weather and soft rain. And all of that along a big road and traffic, so not very pleasant. And my left knee was painful again.

I saw Doe's Castle. Well, it's more a tower than a castle actually, but with a very good position at the end of the estuary, surrounded by the sea on three sides. It made me think of Riverrun, Tully's house Castle in Game of Thrones.

I made a stop in Creeslough where I enjoyed a hot chicken curry (spicy) and Belgian waffles (which had seen more ice than Belgium).

In the afternoon, just before Portnablagh, there was a sign indicating a campsite with a tent logo in Marble Hill. Check up on Google Map, seems to be true, so I decided to get there. After a 30min walk, I found four caravan parks only, with no one and no places at all for camping with a tent. So I had to go back on the main road, I went on to Dunfanaghy where there was supposed to be a hostel according to my 2011 OS Map, and Google Map, but maybe only a campsite according to the website. I just lost 1h of walk because of a wrong sign.

So at 8 pm, I ended up in Corcreggan Mill, where I booked a place for my tent 30min earlier just to be sure there'll be someone to welcome me.

When I arrived, Brendan, the owner, was welcoming a Scottish couple and was surprised to see me: "We don't often see backpacker anymore here" he said. Neither do I!

I explained my situation, and he told me they were not running the hostel anymore for 5 years now. But for 10€ more, I could sleep in the carriage which was the hostel, rather than in my tent, with breakfast included. Deal. Then he explained to me all the things to do and see in the area and told me I might stay longer than expected. And that was funny cause later I saw at the reception a caricature of him telling exactly that (maybe done by a guest). And it was true.

The carriage, an old wagon, had a heater in every compartment, and beside it, was a living room, a kitchen and showers. I found that it was original and the place really had its own personality. I liked it so much I decided to stay another night, longer than expected, and to take a day off, for once not in a city, and some rest for my knee because I was really tired.

 
 
 

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