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Day 4: Frozen night to warm welcome

  • Writer: Pauline Bouras
    Pauline Bouras
  • Mar 25, 2018
  • 3 min read

Updated: Mar 21, 2021

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Day 4 - Wednesday, March 21st 2018: Rush to Donabate 18 km / Total 77 km, 10°C, cloudy


First thing I know that morning is: I stink! Thanks to that sunny day.

I started walking early, as my tent and bag have to be packed with sunrise until people come to walk their dog on the beach. I crossed Rush before 9 am, so when kids are going to school. I think some of them look at me like if I was E.T. But I can understand why, with my big bag, I must seem strange. After a road with no walk sides again, I arrived in Skerries, a lovely place. I went to Café Jaques, for a big Irish Breakfast with porridge (as it's cold outside I need a real big hot meal once per day). The café was full of old ladies, living around I think, and probably the same I saw walking their dog along the coast. There were 2 old men beside me, who asked me about my big bag and my trip. One of them advised me about the walking path to take and to visit Ardgillian Castle. I wonder if people think I'm crazy or not, but in any case, they try to help me. I'm not sure someone already intends to make the tour of Ireland only by walk. Maybe not, because of the weather, and not in that period of the year.

From Skerries, I saw the shadow of the Mourne mountains, in Northern Ireland. And couldn't see anymore the Wicklow mountains and Dublin area. That's nothing, but it means I'm getting on.

In the afternoon, I walk along the coast, with a decent path. The sea was grey/green, but perfectly quiet, reflecting the grey sky. There were clouds, but it was not dark, there was light. No winds, just the sound of the waves. I just sat close to the sea, and stayed there, lost in my thoughts, watching. It was very peaceful, exactly what I came for. I put my feet in the water. It was very cold, but it was so good for my poor feet. When I arrived in Balbriggan I went to the pharmacy and bought myself some bandages for my blisters and a knee pad.

Then I went to Bernie. I found her on Airbnb, as I think it's better for the moment to sleep in a warm place whenever I can, especially if I want to preserve my health at the beginning. She was very friendly to me, and gave me a double room with a private bathroom, as I was the only one staying for the night. It was nice to take time to speak to someone, having a cup of tea. We spoke about her family, her grandchildren (one of them had a rush, hope he's better now), life in Ireland, holidays (going on holidays with sun's cream and umbrella !), and the weather of course. But she also told me about the Irish accent. So far, I thought I was dealing well with it, not so hard to understand. But it seems it's nothing compared to what I'm gonna face in Kerry according to Bernie!

After a hot shower, I had a very good sleep in her house, so quiet. It's important when you have a big walking day after. She left me a nice word for breakfast, so I let her my card, in order to let her know how my trip is going on. I really appreciate my stay at her place.

 
 
 

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