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Day 125: Walking on the hidden way

  • Writer: Pauline Bouras
    Pauline Bouras
  • Aug 20, 2018
  • 2 min read

Updated: Apr 27, 2021


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Day 125 - Thursday, August 9th 2018: Ballinskellig to Caherdaniel 24 km / Total 2580 km, 16°C, sunny


As I woke up, the sun was shining on my tent. I felt happy because as it had been raining the night before, my tent was wet, and the sun would dry it. Unfortunately, while I was having my breakfast, the rain came again. And my tent got damp again ... The eternal story of the Irish weather. 

So when I finally got out of my tent, I had to wait for it to get dry. And midges were waiting with me. So I had to wear my head net, and even with that, some midges were smart enough to get in. 

Despite the midges, the morning was pretty cool. The weather was quite good, sunny enough to wear my hat and sunglasses. The walk started on little and peaceful roads, until I joined the Ring of Kerry again, a few kilometres before Waterville. As I arrived in that town, four buses were parked in the main street. Is Waterville a very famous place to visit? I don't think so. The most important thing about it is that Charlie Chaplin used to spend holidays there. As I was having lunch (another Irish Breakfast with chips and tea ... Gastronomic depression will come soon) I was surrounded by families and children, making the place very noisy. Three more weeks of summer holidays before I can get back to the quiet and peaceful Ireland I like so much.

After Waterville, I had to climb a pass. I could take the Ring of Kerry or the Kerry Way. With all that buses on the road, I decided to try the Kerry Way. I don't regret it. The path was large enough, mostly grass, so very soft for my feet, well indicated and easy to follow. And it was more direct than the road. When I reached the summit, I got a wonderful view, on Ballinskellig Bay on one side and Kenmare Bay on the other side, with Beara peninsula I was going to walk the following week. Down the mountain, there was Derrynane Bay with a wonderful beach and some little islands. It was really a landscape of outstanding beauty. 

And getting down was very easy and very fast, into a little forest protecting me from the burning sun. On that side of the mountain, I met no one. Four hours of peaceful walk, which I really enjoyed.

As I arrived in Caherdaniel, I went to the hostel to see if they had a bed available for me. Unfortunately, not in a dorm room, but I could have a double room just for me at a very affordable price, so I took it. The last time I got a double bed just for me was in Connemara. And sometimes, it's good to have a comfy bed. Indeed, I spent a wonderful night, absolutely quiet and dark. One of my best nights in Ireland!

 
 
 

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