Day 124: May the force be with me

Day 124 - Wednesday, August 8th 2018: Chapeltown/Valentia Island to Ballinskellig 21 km / Total 2556 km, 16°C, sunny

Dry. All my stuff was completely dry, even my tent. I felt so happy. It's incredible how the weather and the level of humidity of my stuff can influence my mood!  I took my time, hot shower, long breakfast watching a video about the Skellig Michael Island (as I can't visit it, it's a UNESCO site but only a few people can get there every day, and it has to be a very early booking) and wait for the German couple to wake up before packing my bag. When I was ready to leave, it was more than 10:30 am. I searched for someone in the pub in order to make the payment. No one. I shouted some "hello, is anybody here ?" And got no answer. I was completely alone (the Germans had already left). So I just left a word, telling them to charge me on Booking.com. I could think it's a strange way of business, but this hostel was mostly a pub, and the drinks definitely (so the alcohol) bring money. They probably make more with alcohol in one night than with the rooms. Alcohol is probably a better business. That would explain why there are so many pubs in Ireland. But there's also a lot of Bed & Breakfast. Those however make money mostly during high season, while pubs make money all year round. And thinking about that, the most famous Irish product for exportation is Guinness. So I believe alcohol must be the best business.  Let's go back to the road. A quiet one across the island. Valentia Island is famous for one thing: its tetrapod footprints. They are 365 million years old, which means they are the oldest footprints known on Earth when animals started to leave the ocean and walked on the ground! I left the island crossing the bridge over Portmagee Chanel and reached Portmagee town, where I got lunch, between an Italian woman speaking very loud and a French couple who were having an argument. Who still believe holidays are a peaceful time? Outside the town, there are the Kerry Cliffs. But as it's on private land and you have to pay to see it. I was quite upset to pay 4€ for a 10min walk to see a natural spot, especially after walking four months for free, and knowing that I walked the Giant Causeway and the Cliffs of Moher for free as well. So I gave up and didn't go. Then I climbed the Coomanaspic, and I walked faster than an English couple from London who had to push their bike to the summit. There, I got a wonderful view of ... the Kerry Cliffs! And also on the north side to Cahersiveen Valley, Valentia Island, Dingle Peninsula and Blasket Islands I saw for the first time; on the south side to St Finian's Bay and the Skellig Michael Island. That island became famous because this is where Luke Skywalker lives in the last Star Wars episodes (7 & 8). It was quite strange for the first time to see no more part of Ireland in the Southwest direction (it didn't happen on Dingle Peninsula as with the misty weather I saw nothing at all).  After climbing, let's go down. I arrived at a beautiful beach cove nestled in the Bay. Crowed. But I sat there, enjoyed the landscape and watched a dog playing and surfing with the waves. I made a stop at the Chocolate Factory, where I met the English couple again with their bike. The man told me it was paradise inside. Honestly, it was crowded, which sounds more like hell for me.  After a small collation (I felt hungry as my lunch was too light), I climbed another mountain. A small road, sun, quiet traffic, and still a wonderful view. Definitely, the Skellig Ring really worthed it. As I passed over the mountain, the road went directly to Ballinskellig, and as I was getting down, I enjoyed the view of Ballinskellig Bay with Horse Island and Hog's Head.  I took a short break at the beach and started to look for a place for my tent. I ended up close to an isolated pier. As the house nearby seemed to be unoccupied, I thought it could be a good place. While I was building my tent, a tick climbed on my hand. Then as I got into my tent, I couldn't get out as midges were all around. Already two annoying things while wild camping. At 8:00 pm came the third one: people. It was families. They went to the beach and played music, so they didn't disturb me. At that moment, I thought the only annoying thing missing was the rain. Which came at 9:00 pm, making the family leaving. Good, after that I could enjoy a peaceful night.  Iveragh Peninsula is also known as an International Dark Sky Reserve. As the weather had been quite clear during the day, I was hoping to see some stars (if the midges didn't eat me). Unfortunately, I didn't see that there was a spotlight just above the Pier, which provided light all night ...